Valentines Day

Hem 2

Well January is through and here is February.  I am going to do a different hem for the samples of each month of the TAST challenge and the next few months will all require a mitred corner on the hem.  I'm sure there are lots of tutorials out there but this  is how I prepare and hand stitch my corners.

I am stitching on even weave linen here so I am able to count the threads if I was stitching on an uneven base fabric I would measure my distance.  (I will be including this later in the year.)  The preparation and stitching isn't nearly as long as hem 1 but it still took one (1) hour from when I began.  (I have done this before so it might take a bit longer if you are unfamiliar with the technique.)

I start with  my finished size as my first measurement and then tack a line at this point.  This becomes the outside fold of my hem. I then tack 2 lines, 12 threads out either side of the finished size line.  I withdraw a thread 8 threads out from the outside line and cut my piece ready for stitching. On a 32 count linen this gives me a finished hem 1cm wide.   (For different width of hem you would have to adjust the thread count either side of the finished size tacking line.)


I start a new thread for each tacking line so that they are easy to withdraw when I am finished and because this is an even weave fabric, at the corners, I have squares where the tacking thread crosses.

 I firstly finger press and then iron the hem on the tacking lines in the direction I want the hem to sit.  This gives me the lines I need to fold down the corners diagonally on the finished size tacking line.


If you fold the hem now you will find that there is a little piece of fabric showing below the hem. 


To remove this you need to cut the fabric below the diagonal fold.  I cut across the diagonal at the box below the fold.



Secure you thread in the hem fold and bring your needle out at the corner of the hem.  (You will have an un-stitched section below this to turn under.)


Catch the opposite corner.


Then continue up the seam to the top of the join using a small ladder stitch.


From the corner bring you needle back to the beginning of the seam and secure the thread.


Turn under the hem and tack into position.


Iron flat.  I then remove my tacking used for marking but leave my securing tacking and the tacking that marks the inside edge of the hem.


For February I intend to finish all my seams from the front of my sample so need to know exactly where the fold sits and leaving this tacking line will show me this accuately.


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Very clear. Your samples will demonstrate more than just the TAST stitches!

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