caro-rose-creations

TAST 2012 May 1st

Week 18 Crossed Buttonhole stitch

I need to stretch this piece over some cardboard and I can't get into my editing program because I have downloaded a new operating system and I can't find my way around it, but I will, in time.

I had already done this stitch on my buttonhole sampler but this gave me the time to play with it. So a very original thought,(not), "use a cross".

• Thin thread and even spacing for the outline, very regular.
• Used for couching the wool thread.  I could have used another thread here but I did want it to look rough and rustic.  It is rough, not sure about the rustic.
• Free stitching in a pearl thread for the grass,this worked well.

Link to Pintangle    Link to Flikr

TAST 2012 April 24th

Week 17 Wheat - ear stitch

 

I thought that I would try another format for this stitch.  I neatened the edges of my sample pieces with a similar stitch on my sewing machine and then frayed back to this.

 

I had some fun with the bunnies by adding an extra loop to the bottom of the stitch and then I reversed the stitch for the flowers.  I think the three rows of stitching would make a good border and it could probably be improved by making the middle row go in the opposite direction.  When I put the stitch side by side it reminded me of a row of people so I added a few french knots to achieve this effect.  Because this is such a regular stitch I punched holes down the side of my card and laced the stitches.  This would be a good stitch for a beginner especially taught by lacing it on card first.

Link to Pintangle    Link to Flikr

Hem 5

My TAST hems for March were all based on a simple drawn thread method.  Nothing fancy here but they still require you to spend the time on preparation. Firstly tacking out the hems and then withdrawing the threads.

 

Then the removal of one thread followed by the weaving in of the second thread so that there are no holes in the hem. 

 

I find that if you remove one thread and then weave in the next the fabric sites better. 

 

This is even more important when you want to remove more than two thread.  Make sure that you begin in the middle of the row to remove the thread and then withdraw each end.

The thread is started by hiding the back stitch under the turned over fabric and then stitched from left to right gathering three threads at a time.   Two threads doesn't really show the stitch to the best advantage, expect when you are using a corse fabric, and four threads is just a bit much unless you are going to split the bundles later.

 When I come to a corner I take 2 small hemming stitches to hold the hem firm.

If I want to have a more linear finish I take my thread down to the bottom edge through a stitch and then stitch the bottom of the gathered thread into the main body of the fabric.  Making sure that I pick up the same number of threads all the way around, I find that 2 threads works well.

 

If I want a zig zag appearance I withdraw 4 threads and then make each bundle an even number so that they are balanced when split.  I take my thread down the length of the withdrawn threads and catch it into the first stitch on the fabric side picking up 2 threads.

Two threads from each bundle are joined in the same way.  That is working left to right and picking up two thread of the fabric.

This is an easy yet attractive hem finish.

So these are the three hems I have used and they are relatively quick and easy to stitch.  I have to admit these are the hems I use the most on my work. 

Hem 4

This hem begins in the same manner as all the hems for February.  That is I tacked out the finished size and then the width of the hem I wanted on either side.  For this hem I allowed 20 thread and I used 32 threads to 1" fabric.  I worked the rabbits first in double running stitch. 

I adapted a pattern that I found at Berlin Designs where they are running a Blackwork Mini Mystery Project.  I added a tail and an eye to the design.   There were some really cute designs here.  (This project is running in March and April so there will be other free designs available.)

 Next I mitred the corners and tacked and ironed the hem into position.  One thread below the design I stitched a line of one back stitch, one running stitch, over 4 threads, around the whole piece.  When stitching I used a crewel needle (sharp point) that would pass through the three folds of fabric, using a stabbing motion with the needle. 

I then went back and embroidered the detail between the rabbits through one layer of fabric.

By using this method the hem stayed flat and did not give the 'frame effect'.

 Lots of work, but I am pleased with the result.

Hem 3

The Hem

I started by tacking out the hems, this time I wanted the hem wider so counted 20 threads either side of the finished size tacking line.  I embroidered the hem before I set it.  I probably could have taken more care in the spacing of the flowers but time was limited and I still spent far more time than I could afford.  (4 hours)

Next I mitred the corners (see hem 2) and tacked the hems in position.  To catch the edges I used an semi-invisible hem stitch.   To start the thread I inserted the needle through the fold and caught it with a small back stitch in the hem, doing the reverse when I finished.

I worked with the edge of the hem facing away from me.  The needle slides inside the hem fold for about 1cm,

and then 1 thread is picked up from the main fabric.

This gives a raised edge to your hem which sits like a frame around your work.

Another East Asian Design

I have just finished a panel that I intend to put into a cushion cover.  I recycled a piece of soft furnishing linen and used  perle cottons and some rayon threads for the embroidery.

My husband took a business trip to Vietnam a little while ago (on which I wasn't invited  so I went to the USA,) and brought back some piece offerings.  One of those made reference to some bronze drums from 600BC which were decorated and this was one of the designs.

I found  a good photo collection on Flikr and adapted my pattern from images I found here.

The drums are not very big but are quite beautiful.  This work is from the Dong Son civilization.

 

Hem No1

A number of people have asked how I did the hems on my January TAST samples.  So I have put together a few tips.   Firstly I have to say that this type of hem takes a bit of time to stitch about 3 hours for each sample which measure 6" X 8 1/2".  The time taken can be considerably less than this if you are using an open-weave even count linen, (the needle-book).  This type of linen is great for drawn thread work but not so good for other types of stitching.

The other good thing about this type of hem is that it allows you to use under sized pieces of fabric.  By that I mean a piece of fabric that would be too small if you turned a normal hem

It gives a firm, non frayable edge but does require an even weave fabric to get the right effect.

To begin, I withdraw a thread at what I want to be the outside edge, on all four sides.

To start my stitching I run a small number of running stitches on the edge that I intend to turn under.  (I will stitch over these when I get to the four sided stitch.)

 

 I use a 24 tapestry needle and a 12 perle cotton, it the fabric is of a lower thread count I sometimes use a 8 perle cotton.

 In the space left by the withdrawn thread I gather 4 thread with a back stitch around the whole piece.  When stitching this you need to have some tension on your thread as this line of stitching will form the picot edge.

At this point I cut back the hem edges so they are about the same width, no less than 1/2" if possible.  As I want my four sided stitch to be as wide as it is high I withdraw the 5th and then 10th thread from inside the line of back stitch.  (You could make this the 4th and 8th theads if you are running short on fabric. I find any less than this is unsuccessful.)

The fabric is then turned under so that the back stitch stands proud.  I like to turn the two short edges and then the long, ironing them in place.  I then start with a back stitch over the 4 threads in the space left from the withdrawn thread and through the turned over fabric held at the back.  Pull this tight.  Doing this forms the holes and holds the fabric in place.

 

Take the thread up between the picots and 4 threads further along from your last back stitch.  This holds the fold in place and accentuates the picot.

Sometimes the thread may catch and pull out of position.  Use your needle to lay it in the right position and then pull tight. 

Continue with these two steps around your fabric.

THE CORNERS.

When you get to a corner you will need to stitch through a number of layers.  The best way to do this is with a stabbing motion. 

The needle will take the thread through all the layers and hold the corner firm.

The next row uses the same stitches but is a lot easier as you don't have to worry about the picot.

When starting and finishing my thread on the edge, I use the channel formed by the stitching to hide the ends.

To finish off, turn your fabric to the wrong side and trim back the fabric to the stitching.

Hem finished

A sewing kit

Every stitcher needs some bits and pieces for their kit.  So here is a needle-case, pin cushion and scissor keeper to go inside that small bag the children may choose to stitch.

They may even choose to add their name.  (This was stitched using waste canvas)

Patterns Download Needle Case

Download Pin cushion and Scissor keeper.

New Samples

I am working on some embroidery designs for the Saturday Children's Creative Embroidery Classes.  In the process I'm trying to build in some structure to the learning and document how they should be taught and why, whilst still allowing choice for the students.  Difficult when you have a range of abilities and ages, from 8 years to 14 years. 

After our holiday class which was based on a sampler I have decided that the children could select a shape and then fill it with different stitches.  This could then be used as a panel in a small bag to hold their stitching.  I selected a bird shape but it could be any shape that you can draw lines in.  I also selected a cotton Osnaburg fabric which is inexpensive and almost an even weave.

Because the fabric is such an open weave I layered it over a piece of very thin pelum and put it into a hoop for stitching.

The other thing I have found is that most children like stitching in an embroidery hoop.  But there are a few things that must be taken into consideration.

The hoop should be no larger than 16cm (61/2") in diameter.  This will mean that the child will have to move it around the fabric to stitch.  In reality this means the tutor or parent will need to do this.

The embroidery hoop should have a screw that can be tightened with a small screwdriver so that the work can be held tight.  Again, this will require an adult with a small scredriver in their sewing kit to help.

Because this piece is for children I used lots of bright colours in No 8 perle cotton and a crewel embroidery needle.

( Download Untitled     I have enclosed a copy of the pattern which has a heavy outline, no need for a light box.)

Mindless

I'm not sure what happened to my mind in this fall, it seems to have left me for a while.  Now that it is back I find I have done some really stupid things over the last week.

I flippantly said that I would stitch a sampler and have it finished before the new year.  No.  I started the sampler but when my mind returned (after going off somewhere else)  I realised that I had started in the wrong place.  What I had marked as the middle was about 4 inches out.  A week of stitching has now been withdrawn and I am about to start again.

This sampler will not be finished in a few days, it is a long term project. 
Hopefully it will be finished some time in 2012.