caro-rose-creations

The raffle prize

I am so tired after my day teaching the children that all I want to do is fall into bed.  But I thought you might like to see our main raffle prize for this class.  One very cute bunny with floppy ears and a crochet flower necklace, that a little girl could also use as a bracelet.  I heard the name 'Belinda" being used when the bunny was won.

The little crochet flowers are very simple to make.  Here is a short tutorial.

I used some left over Appleton's crewel embroidery wool and a 1.5mm crochet hook.

Leaving a tail about 20cm long I made 15 chain and then made a treble crochet into the 4th chain from the hook. ( This made  2 treble crochet stitches.)  I then did a further 3 treble crochet into the same chain stitch making 5 trebles altogether.

I continued along the chain making 5 treble crochet into each chain stitch.  By the end it made a very curly piece of work.  I finished off leaving a 20cm tail on this end as well.

After twisting the piece into a rose shape, I then used a needle and the beginning excess thread to sew the base of the flower together.

Then using the finishing thread I took the needle to the front of the rose to secure the centre.

To finish, I took the finishing thread back through to the base and tied both threads together with a knot.  (You can use these threads to attach the flower to what ever piece you want to decorate.)

Then one crocheted rose.  These little flowers take me less than 5 minutes to make each one and the kids love the bracelets I attach them to.  There are also a good use for those left over pieces of embroidery wool.

 

Fabric Tulips

I had someone ask how I made the tulips that cover the knots on the mug bag.  So here is a little tutorial.

I started with 4" (10cm) square of fabric which I stitched along one side. I then folded the tube of fabric in half wrong sides together so the the raw edges were matching.

I used a sharp needle (crewel) and doubled my sewing thread,  so that it would be stronger, and did a row of running stitching around this edge.  I started with a knot because you are not going to see this stitching.

I then slipped this over the knot of the cord, with the gathered edge behind the knot, and pulled the gathering tight and secured the end.

You then pull the fabric over the knot like a little cup.  Put you edges together and do a couple of stitches in the middle of the edge catching the two sides together.

Turn you work and divide the fabric in half again and catch the edge again.

One little tulip that hides that knot and the knot puffs out the tulip and no bedraggled knot in sight.

Birds

While waiting for the barge to go over to the island the other day I saw a whole flock of pied oyster catchers sitting on the rocks near the boat ramp.  They are very distinctive birds. Black with a while breast and bright red legs beak and eyes.

I think that these birds would work well as an applique or mini quilt.  I'm not sure about their use in an embroidery.  I haven't got time to do any of these things so I have just done a line drawing for future reference.

Their colours really stood out against the rocks on this grey day.  I have included a PDF of the drawing.

 Download Pied oyster catcher

Hem 6

Because of the size of the sample I decided that to withdraw 8 threads on all sides wouldn't leave a lot of space for stitching. So I have only done this at the top and the bottom and withdrawn 2 threads along the sides.  This will be one of the last hems where I will weave in the withdrawn threads. Once you withdraw this number of threads it is easier to buttonhole over the edges. ( The hem preparation and stitching is demonstrated in  Hem 5 .)

 

But this left me with the dilema of what to do with the hole left at the sides.  I decided to make another 3 thread bundle in each hole by using the embroidery thread.  This isn't hard to do as you can see in the following images.

I start by anchoring my thread in the hem  or you could start in the first stitch of the longer side. Starting in the hem will give you 4 threads, in the side  3 threads.

I make sure I do a half hitch to anchor the thread and give the appearance that these threads were part of the fabric.

A half hitch is stitched by passing the needle under the fake threads and over the cotton and pulling the thread tight.  In this case I hadn't  finished  the hem stitching on this side so I just continued on.  In the example above after inserting the threads I took my thread out through the side hem and finished off.

I then decided to gather the bundles into groups of 2.  I think that groups of 3 would have looked just as good.  I did this by joining each group with a chain stitch.  The only thing to watch is that you keep a good tension on the floating thread and that you watch which side of the thread you place your needle.

This is another very easy hem finish.

A quick, cheap, Easter gift.

This happens every Easter, I get stuck thinking of ideas for things to make for my Patchwork Group.  I search the net looking for ideas and every time I end up having to come up with something myself.  This year is no different.  There are only a few days to go and it is crunch time, well chook time actually.

I bought a bag of lavender when I was up at Toowomba last week and there it was sitting on my desk smelling wonderful and saying, "look at me, look at me".  Then inspiration struck.  Chooks lay eggs, in this case easter eggs, so I would use my old chook pin cushion pattern.  (Well it isn't really mine just my version.)  What I did do is miniaturise it to make it a lavender bag to hang on a coat hanger and of course each chook has some eggs.

MATERIALS

1 X a charm square, 5" x 5."  

a square of felt ( 3/4" ) and cut in half diagonally to make 2 triangles.

  For the hanger cut a length of ribbon about 4".

Beads for the eyes. 

Each chook takes about 4 teaspoons of lavender for the filling.

Cut the charm square into 4 equal size squares.  So one 1 charm square makes 2 chooks.

Position the felt beak 1/2" from the top edge with the right side of the fabric facing up.

Place another square of fabric on top of this, right sides facing each other and sew down this side with a scant 1/4" seam.  Open the seam and iron.

Place the folded ribbon next to this seam with the ends protruding over the edge.

Close the fabric and sew along this seam reverse stitching over the ribbon to make sure it is secure.

On the bottom edge of the square, that is the one opposite where the ribbon is attached, sew either end of the seam, reversing back over your stitching, and leaving an opening to add the filling.

On the unfinished end, fold and bring the two seams together to square off. Sew across seam.

Take hold of the ribbon and pull through to the right side.  Push out each of the corners.

The little pyramids will sit up on their own at this point but now we have to fill and finish them.

TO FILL

I made a funnel from a piece of paper, the same way you make an icing bag. I used a piece of printing paper and cut the end to fit the opening at the bottom of the chook.  I also worked over a container.  No matter how careful you are something always spills. Take a bit of time to add the lavender.  I packed it down between each teaspoon and moved the filling to the side to add the last teaspoon full.

TO FINISH

The neatest way to close the bottom opening is to ladder stitch it.   The thread you use to close the opening you also use to sew on the beads so make sure it is of a good length.  I started by sewing  a back stitch in the seam and then ran the needle along the seam to the opening.

 

My material was fraying and I had 20 bags to make so I whip stitched the opening closed.

I then took the thread through the filling up to the position of the eye making sure that I didn't pull it tight.  At this point make a small back stitch to hold the thread, then attach your bead.

Fold the top of the head flat and take the thread through to the other side and repeat. Finish with a small back stitch to secure the thread.

Now, take you thread through to the back seam and do a series of back stitches in the ditch to complete the finishing.

You can change the look of your chook by just changing the length of your ribbon, the position of the eyes or reversing the position of the closing seam.

Quick, easy, cheap and only another 16 to go.

 

 

Hem 3

The Hem

I started by tacking out the hems, this time I wanted the hem wider so counted 20 threads either side of the finished size tacking line.  I embroidered the hem before I set it.  I probably could have taken more care in the spacing of the flowers but time was limited and I still spent far more time than I could afford.  (4 hours)

Next I mitred the corners (see hem 2) and tacked the hems in position.  To catch the edges I used an semi-invisible hem stitch.   To start the thread I inserted the needle through the fold and caught it with a small back stitch in the hem, doing the reverse when I finished.

I worked with the edge of the hem facing away from me.  The needle slides inside the hem fold for about 1cm,

and then 1 thread is picked up from the main fabric.

This gives a raised edge to your hem which sits like a frame around your work.

Valentines Day

For middle aged women the likelihood of receiving a Valentines card or gift is somewhat remote.  So I searched through my sewing patterns to come up with something I could make and give as a gift for the members of my patchwork group.  I decided to adapt another heart pattern that I had used before. Download VALENTINE

I have often used this heart shape as a method of teaching beginner sewers how to use a sewing machine, I used it here as a coaster pattern. It is a good exercise for stitching a curved line and you have something when you are finished.  (For year 9 students I found that it could be finished in a 70 minute lesson.)

I have used scraps for my pieces.  You will need one piece each of fabric for the front and back and some wadding to go between them. ( I used left over cotton batting and cotton patchwork fabric.)

Stack your pieces with the batting at the back and the backing with right side facing up and the top fabric right side facing down.  Because I was making 20 coasters I cut a cardboard template of the pattern and drew the outline on the back of the top fabric.

You do not cut the fabric around the shape until you have finished sewing. 

Because you are sewing a curved line this will be on the bias of the fabric and could easily stretch out of shape if the fabric is cut. The pattern has been sized so that 2 copies can be printed on 1 A4 piece of paper.  Cut the paper pattern roughly around the outside and position over the outline mark and sew on the sewing line marked on the paper leaving a 2 inch gap on one side for turning the fabric through to the right side.  Be careful when sewing the top curve.  Slow the speed of your machine and walk the needle around.

Tear the paper away, first tearing it from the outside of the shape.

 Then the inside shape.  This will not disturb the stitching.  If you just tear you find that the stitches could loop and stretch, or break.

Now we trim back the seam allowance to about 1/4" with the exception of the opening which should be around 1/2" allowance.  Again, you leave extra fabric here so that the bias doesn't stretch as you pull the fabric to the right side.   Nick the seam at the top curve so that the seam turns though flat.

Turn through to the right side. ( Ease the fabric don't pull hard.) You will find that the extra fabric you left at the opening will turn into place easily.

Ladder stitch the opening closed.

Iron your coaster on the back first, this settles the seam and your front fabric will sit towards the back.

Now, a coaster on it's own is a bit ordinary.  Add a tea bag and a chocolate.

If you are making this with kids you may find that the chocolate is just too big a temptation so wrap your gift in cellophane and tie with a ribbon.

Hem No1

A number of people have asked how I did the hems on my January TAST samples.  So I have put together a few tips.   Firstly I have to say that this type of hem takes a bit of time to stitch about 3 hours for each sample which measure 6" X 8 1/2".  The time taken can be considerably less than this if you are using an open-weave even count linen, (the needle-book).  This type of linen is great for drawn thread work but not so good for other types of stitching.

The other good thing about this type of hem is that it allows you to use under sized pieces of fabric.  By that I mean a piece of fabric that would be too small if you turned a normal hem

It gives a firm, non frayable edge but does require an even weave fabric to get the right effect.

To begin, I withdraw a thread at what I want to be the outside edge, on all four sides.

To start my stitching I run a small number of running stitches on the edge that I intend to turn under.  (I will stitch over these when I get to the four sided stitch.)

 

 I use a 24 tapestry needle and a 12 perle cotton, it the fabric is of a lower thread count I sometimes use a 8 perle cotton.

 In the space left by the withdrawn thread I gather 4 thread with a back stitch around the whole piece.  When stitching this you need to have some tension on your thread as this line of stitching will form the picot edge.

At this point I cut back the hem edges so they are about the same width, no less than 1/2" if possible.  As I want my four sided stitch to be as wide as it is high I withdraw the 5th and then 10th thread from inside the line of back stitch.  (You could make this the 4th and 8th theads if you are running short on fabric. I find any less than this is unsuccessful.)

The fabric is then turned under so that the back stitch stands proud.  I like to turn the two short edges and then the long, ironing them in place.  I then start with a back stitch over the 4 threads in the space left from the withdrawn thread and through the turned over fabric held at the back.  Pull this tight.  Doing this forms the holes and holds the fabric in place.

 

Take the thread up between the picots and 4 threads further along from your last back stitch.  This holds the fold in place and accentuates the picot.

Sometimes the thread may catch and pull out of position.  Use your needle to lay it in the right position and then pull tight. 

Continue with these two steps around your fabric.

THE CORNERS.

When you get to a corner you will need to stitch through a number of layers.  The best way to do this is with a stabbing motion. 

The needle will take the thread through all the layers and hold the corner firm.

The next row uses the same stitches but is a lot easier as you don't have to worry about the picot.

When starting and finishing my thread on the edge, I use the channel formed by the stitching to hide the ends.

To finish off, turn your fabric to the wrong side and trim back the fabric to the stitching.

Hem finished

It probably would have been cheaper..

It probably would have been cheaper to buy a little dress at Target but then I wouldn't have had the pleasure of making it.

 

 The fabric was from back in the days when I was working as a buyer for dress fabric in a Department Store, 1980's, light poly-cotton.  Great for washing, drying in the dryer and no need to iron.  I added a 3" hem so it can be let down as she grows. 

How did I make it? 

I took her measurements;

1. chest at armpit   +   1 inch for ease   (20")
2. length from armpit to approx waist   + 1" for hem and seam allowances (5 1/2')
   
3. length from armpit to mid knee    +  hem  allowance  (14"+3"hem)

Cut the fabric

fabric 1 (pink check)

 Measurement No 2, In this case 5 1/2 " deep across the width of the fabric (selvedge to selvedge 45" )

 fabric 2   (flower print)

Measurement No 3  less measurement 2 , in this case 12",  across the fabric to match fabric 1.

4 pieces 15" x 2" for straps

Construction - straps

Sew straps so that they have a finished size of about 3/4". 

There are lots of different ways you can do this, so quick some slow. 

I like to sew the slow way.

I sew  together the edges on the wrong side and then turn through.

Iron flat with the seam now placed in the middle of the strap. 

 

 

I push a small amount of fabric back into the strap at one end and then sew close to the edge all the way around.  Put aside to attach later.

 

 

Construction - Body

Sew two pieces of fabric together across the width, neaten edge and top stitch the seam.  Over-lock or neaten around the whole piece.

Turn over small hem at top edge and sew down with a straight stitch.

 

Using tailors chalk or some other removable marker,

Mark 7 lines across fabric  at equal distances from each other as a guide for attaching the shirring elastic,  (see note at end).

After shirring the width should be about your chest at armpit measurement.  (Make sure you remove the marked lines at this point.)

Sew the edges together matching the elastic ends.  I then sew this seam flat so it doesn't irritate the wearer.

Turn up your bottom hem at a measurement equal to the length from armpit to mid knee.  I added a wide hem so that it could be let down.

Attaching the straps

 The join in the fabric now sits at centre back

Measure in 1 1/2" from the side and attach the front straps to the top hem.  I turn my ends under and sew around the edge to do this.

Place your back straps to sit just inside your front staps and attach.

With all those words you can see why it took so long.  I'm sure I would have been quicker if I hadn't been in this wheelchair.

Now I need to make a little flower to go onto a hair-clip to finish it off.

Note about shirring

Nearly every sewing machine manufacturer has a different recommended method of doing this.  Some wind the elastic onto the bobbin, some have a special foot attachment.  In some classrooms I would have 4 or 5 different machine brands and some of them were so old that shirring elastic hadn't been invented, so I devised this method for old machines and no attachments.

Set you machine to zig zag at about 2.5 length and 1.8 width.  The needle should swing just either side of the elastic.

Tie a knot at the starting end and zig zag into position using your marked line as a guide.  Leave a tail of about 5".  Do this for each line. DO NOT GATHER AS YOU SEW.

Make sure the beginning of each piece of elastic is secure by sewing a line of straight stitch down the edge.

Pull up your elastic like gathering thread to the size required and secure the ends. If you pull the fabric top and bottom you will find that the elastic will align itself.

Of course if you have a machine that does shirring just use the recommended method.

A sinking feeling

My computer is doing funny things, like flashing screens, things disappearing.  I think someone has put a hex on it or maybe it is due for some servicing?  I have tried 3 or 4 times to put up this post, one more try.

My son's girlfriend wanted some book covers in various sizes so I opened my boxes of soft furnishing samples for her to select what she wanted.  She selected Roses, (her name is Rosanna.)  The reason she had come to me was to high cost of book covers in the shops.  They start at about $20 and go up to $50 each.

Your basic fabric book cover  is easy and cheap to make.  If you use expensive fabric this can increase the cost but not to the amount of the store bought product, even if it is manufactured in India or China.  So here are the basic instructions.

Measure the height,

and width of your book, including the spine.

Just as a rule of thumb I add 1 and 1/2 inches to each measurement to allow for seams and ease.  Make sure you square up this piece of fabric and that the parallel sides all measure the same amount. 

For the sleeves I use a cotton fabric that coordinates with the cover fabric.  I know this is a little wasteful but I cut this piece the same size as the book cover.  Fold it in half length wise and cut 1inch in from the fold.   Neaten one height edge of each piece by zig zagging the edge and then turning a small hem and machining this in place. Place this on top of your cover fabric with the right sides facing each other.  You should have a gap in the middle.

Then cut a piece of calico the same size and pin this over the sleeves and the cover fabric. Next, begin sewing at the lower edge where the edge of the sleeve stops.  I use the width of my presser foot to set the width of the seam.

I sew both long sides and then the short sides leaving a gap between the sleeve edges on one side.  Then, trim the excess fabric from the corners.  If using furnishing fabrics you may need to straighten your edges as many of them have a lot of movement.

Turn the fabric to the right side through the gap you have left.  This usually leaves the fabric looking a bit worse for wear but don't be put off by this.

Iron your fabrics flat making sure that you roll the book cover fabric slightly to the inside.  By using a heavier fabric like a soft furnishing I find that this happens anyway.  Take time to iron your fabric till it sits flat.  Turn the opening seam to the inside. 

Now with the book cover facing up and using a straight stitch which you have lengthened to about 3 and1/2 length, stitch closely around the edge making sure that you close the opening.  This becomes the bottom edge.

Then inset your book inside the sleeves.

I find a simple cover like this takes about 30 minutes to make from start to finish.  If you want to there are lots of other things you could do to decorate the main fabric before you put the pieces together.