Working on the hemp fabric is wonderful but for some items it doesn't give the right effect. So I have been doing a bit of experimenting. I found some furnishing fabric at Spotlight that had an open weave and looked as though it might be even, it wasn't.
These care labels leave a lot to be desired. I washed the fabric on a normal cycle with warm water. It shrank about 1% and of course, all the sizing was removed. I then spray starched it to get the hand back. I Ironed it with a steam iron on cotton with no ill effects. Nothing like the label. Also the label said linen natural but actually it only has 30% linen. It cost $22.99 per metre. I want to embroider some tote bags so I should get 4 out of the metre of fabric.

The thread count was 22 threads per inch in both the warp and weft directions. However the warp threads were quite a bit thinner than the weft. This meant the the size of the diamond was different when stitched either way. A difference of 1/4 of an inch over the whole design.

I also experimented with the thread. The first stitched across the weft thread in 3 strands of Kogin cotton and the 3 strands of DMC stranded cotton. I quite like the contrast between the mat colour of the Kogin thread and the shine of the DMC. The tension on the DMC thread had to be very slack to get the coverage. Both threads could be worked in the traditional manner meaning that the work is revesable.

I then tried stitching some perle threads across the warp. Amazing the difference 1/4 of an inch can make in the appearance of the design. The DMC Perle No 3 gave a good coverage but the No 5 was terrible. It would have been worse if stitched across the weft. Also, the perle thread could not be woven in the same way so the piece wasn't revesable. Still, it would be alright if you lined your work. Another thing with the Perle thread is the way the light is reflected. Because the stitching is across and then back the light can give it a lumpy appearance.

As a result of these experiments I think the bags will need to be stitched across the warp, there will be too much movement the other way. Also I will keep to the stranded cottons. I didn't try the Sashiko thread because it was thinner than the perle so I eliminated that from the beginning.